Cambodia - observations, experiences

Everyone has a moto (a Vespa-like motorcycle). This is the general mode of transportation in Cambodia. In fact, there aren’t really any taxis or buses except for long-distance travel, you simply hop on the back of a moto to go wherever you’re going. That or a tuk-tuk. And there's no limit to how many or how much you can pile on. "No problem," goes the motto of the moto drivers. I saw a moto with six people on it, including a baby dangling from her mother's arms. I also saw a moto with four big television sets piled on the back (with no protective packaging, mind you). And then of course you have me and my huge luggage -- see photo to the right (my 4' stilts are sticking out on the other side). And off we go into the crazy traffic of Phnom Penh! No problem!

As I may have mentioned, I find the Cambodian people to be extremely friendly. Especially children are very open and curious. Little kids passing you on the road will most certainly shout out "Hello! Hello!," invariably followed by giggling. Even way out in the field, if they see me, they will holler "Hello! Hello! Hello! Hello!" It's funny. Cute. They do it with such excitement. I bike by on a little path past a house, and the family goes "Oh, look, a barang (i.e. foreigner)!... Wave to her!... Hello, hello!" Even adults when driving by on their moto, turn and shout out a friendly "Hello!" Men may stare at me, but not in an uncomfortable way. It's fairly easy to make friendly contact and conversation. Of course for conversation it helps if they speak English (as my Khmer is limited). Which a lot of them do. The younger people. And the older men and women often speak French, a remnant from colonial times. Since I speak French that works for me. Then, on the other hand, there are the times of complete communication breakdown, when I say something as simple as "bai" (rice) which I cannot possibly be mispronouncing and the woman selling rice patties looks at me like I'm an alien. Since I very much want to learn Khmer and pride myself in my easy ability to pick up languages, that frustrates me! Bai? What don't you understand?! Argh.

There are a lot of children begging for food and money in the cities (Battambang, Siem Reap, Phnom Penh) and it is hard to know how best to deal with it. One little girl no more than 4 or 5, extremely dirty and barefoot, came up to me as I was sitting at a street-food vendors cafe table eating. She wanted money. I bought her some food, which they wrapped up for her to take away. She did not look happy, however, at being given food. I wondered what she was going to do with it. Was she sent out to beg by a Fagin-type leader, who would collect everything they get? If with her parents, would they take the food? Would she get to eat it? However, later when I walked down the street, I saw her sitting on the sidewalk eating. Good, I was glad. Often children are sent out by their parents to beg, or by a gang leader. You don't want to encourage this practice so it's not the best thing to give them money. And yet you want to help. It's hard to know when they really just want help to get something to eat, and when they are foils for someone else's scheme. And there are so many you can't give to everyone, you really can't. Some people make it a principle to never give at all. (And instead, help by supporting aid organizations.) Besides children, lots of mothers with babies on their arms, and old women.

Here's an interesting little tidbit: Cambodian women like to wear pajamas as street clothes. I mean, a lot. It's curious to me. If only for the fact that the weather is so warm and they're walking around in flannel pajamas, aren't they hot?! I find it funny. Grown women walking around in Hello Kitty pajamas or little bunny prints or ducks. If a person was walking down the street in pajamas in the U.S., someone would be calling the men in white coats. Maybe not in New York City, where anything goes, but otherwise. Apparently, as I was told, it started out as a trend for rich Cambodian women to demonstrate that they did not have to work, so they could go around all day in lounge wear. Then it became fashion somehow and women working wear them and so does everyone else.
Shopping at the market - in pajamas

[Further observations to follow]